<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?><rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
		>
<channel>
	<title>Comments on: Drilling a pen blank on the lathe</title>
	<atom:link href="http://syzygypens.com/blog/2009/06/01/drilling-a-pen-blank-on-the-lathe/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://syzygypens.com/blog/2009/06/01/drilling-a-pen-blank-on-the-lathe/</link>
	<description>... adventures in woodturning and woodworking</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Wed, 17 Feb 2010 14:30:29 -0500</lastBuildDate>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=abc</generator>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
		<item>
		<title>By: Keith Larrett</title>
		<link>http://syzygypens.com/blog/2009/06/01/drilling-a-pen-blank-on-the-lathe/comment-page-1/#comment-651</link>
		<dc:creator>Keith Larrett</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 03 Sep 2009 23:03:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://syzygypens.com/blog/?p=623#comment-651</guid>
		<description>Rock

I get the dental wax from Arizona Silhouette.  Here is the address &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.arizonasilhouetteinc.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;products_id=450&quot; rel=&quot;nofollow&quot;&gt;  It cost thirty cents a sheet, I got ten sheets and they have lasted me forever.  

As far as cutting my designs on the scrollsaw, I draw a pattern and then stick that to the pen blank with spray adhesive.  Then I just cut along the pattern line.  The cut from the scroll saw is generally smooth enough for a glue joint, although I will normally sand them lightly.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Rock</p>
<p>I get the dental wax from Arizona Silhouette.  Here is the address <a href="http://www.arizonasilhouetteinc.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;products_id=450" rel="nofollow">  It cost thirty cents a sheet, I got ten sheets and they have lasted me forever.  </p>
<p>As far as cutting my designs on the scrollsaw, I draw a pattern and then stick that to the pen blank with spray adhesive.  Then I just cut along the pattern line.  The cut from the scroll saw is generally smooth enough for a glue joint, although I will normally sand them lightly.</a></p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Rocky Davis</title>
		<link>http://syzygypens.com/blog/2009/06/01/drilling-a-pen-blank-on-the-lathe/comment-page-1/#comment-636</link>
		<dc:creator>Rocky Davis</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 01 Sep 2009 18:30:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://syzygypens.com/blog/?p=623#comment-636</guid>
		<description>I was impressed with the dental wax for keeping glue out of the tubes while glueing them to the blanks.  Where do you get this product, and does it come in a sheet like you pictured, or do you press in into a flat piece with which to work?

How do you cut your designes so precisely with your scroll saw? Are you sanding the pieces smoothe after the cut before joining them back together?

Rock</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I was impressed with the dental wax for keeping glue out of the tubes while glueing them to the blanks.  Where do you get this product, and does it come in a sheet like you pictured, or do you press in into a flat piece with which to work?</p>
<p>How do you cut your designes so precisely with your scroll saw? Are you sanding the pieces smoothe after the cut before joining them back together?</p>
<p>Rock</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Keith Larrett</title>
		<link>http://syzygypens.com/blog/2009/06/01/drilling-a-pen-blank-on-the-lathe/comment-page-1/#comment-59</link>
		<dc:creator>Keith Larrett</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Jun 2009 21:11:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://syzygypens.com/blog/?p=623#comment-59</guid>
		<description>I use this method on all my pen blanks Ed.  I have limited experience with resins and plastics, but those that I have made have all been drilled this way.  You&#039;re right about the exit hole not being supported.  Maybe the collet provides some of the support.  I also am in the habit of sharpening the drill bit each time before I drill and advancing the drill slowly towards the end of the hole. 

Or maybe it just &quot;dumb luck&quot; :)

Thanks for the comments!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I use this method on all my pen blanks Ed.  I have limited experience with resins and plastics, but those that I have made have all been drilled this way.  You&#8217;re right about the exit hole not being supported.  Maybe the collet provides some of the support.  I also am in the habit of sharpening the drill bit each time before I drill and advancing the drill slowly towards the end of the hole. </p>
<p>Or maybe it just &#8220;dumb luck&#8221; <img src='http://syzygypens.com/blog/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' /> </p>
<p>Thanks for the comments!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
	<item>
		<title>By: Ed Brown</title>
		<link>http://syzygypens.com/blog/2009/06/01/drilling-a-pen-blank-on-the-lathe/comment-page-1/#comment-57</link>
		<dc:creator>Ed Brown</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 04 Jun 2009 18:12:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://syzygypens.com/blog/?p=623#comment-57</guid>
		<description>Keith,

As you know, the &quot;conventional wisdom&quot; demands that we stop short of exiting the blank when drilling, so we don&#039;t &quot;blow up&quot; the material.  Have you used this method on resins, palm wood, and other blanks that would typically show &quot;exit wounds&quot;??

I would suspect that the additional support you are providing with your collet MIGHT eliminate the &quot;blow up&quot; syndrome, but I would be hesitant to say anything authoritative, one way or another.

Thanks for the article, it is well-done!!

Ed</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Keith,</p>
<p>As you know, the &#8220;conventional wisdom&#8221; demands that we stop short of exiting the blank when drilling, so we don&#8217;t &#8220;blow up&#8221; the material.  Have you used this method on resins, palm wood, and other blanks that would typically show &#8220;exit wounds&#8221;??</p>
<p>I would suspect that the additional support you are providing with your collet MIGHT eliminate the &#8220;blow up&#8221; syndrome, but I would be hesitant to say anything authoritative, one way or another.</p>
<p>Thanks for the article, it is well-done!!</p>
<p>Ed</p>
]]></content:encoded>
	</item>
</channel>
</rss>
